Villa Maria Single Vineyard Keltern Chardonnay 2015 (Hawke’s Bay)
The Keltern Vineyard near Maraekakaho should be renamed the ‘Midas’ – its chardonnays invariably come up gold.
This new release is no exception. It’s a flinty number, intense and compelling, with smoke, citrus pith and minerally complexity travelling along knife-edge acidity. “It’s gorgeous… sex in a glass,” enthused Jane Boyle.