Bollinger Spécial Cuvée Brut NV
Bollinger keeps pretty quiet about any changes to its wines, but the non-vintage Brut has been subtly transformed in recent years, giving away a little of its rather old-fashioned oxidative style in favour of a more vibrant model.That said, this wine will still please traditionalists with its winning combination of apple, nut brittle, mealy and meaty complexities, and rich, toasty depth. It’s still concentrated and opulent, but it is fresher than it used to be and all the more satisfying as a result. (C)