Aurum Madeleine Pinot Noir 2014 (Central Otago)
This is a compelling wine. “It hits the top of your nose with more than the usual suspects,” noted Ben Glover. “You’d sniff it for 15 minutes before drinking it.” Added John Belsham: “It’s an expression of pinot noir that is definitive of the variety.” It begins subtly, with seductive red and dark fruit florals mingling with fresh cut herb scents. In the mouth it grows in vigour and interest, with fascinating Campari-like bitterness offsetting the more regulation sweet fruit notes. Finely woven, dense, well-managed tannins pave the way to a lengthy, satisfying finish. It offers a sense of volume, but not in an obvious way.